Konnichiwa from Osaka — I’m CHIO.
I’m an esthetician in Japan, where I work hands-on with women’s skin every day.
There is one Japanese skincare word that can be surprisingly confusing in English: lotion.
In English, “lotion” often sounds like a creamy moisturizer. But in Japan, keshosui — usually translated as Japanese lotion — is commonly a light, watery skincare step used after cleansing.
For many of us in Japan, applying lotion after washing the face feels completely ordinary. But when I look at skincare routines outside Japan, I realize that this separate hydration step is not always considered essential.
And that difference tells us something interesting about J-Beauty.
Japanese Lotion: The Short Answer
WHAT IS KESHOSUI?
A lightweight hydration step used after cleansing.
It is not body lotion, and it is not always exactly the same thing as a Western toner.
Japanese lotion is generally used on clean skin before serum, emulsion, moisturizer, or cream.
The exact formula varies, but hydration is often an important part of its role.
That does not mean everyone in the world needs to add Japanese lotion to their routine.
It means that Japanese skincare has traditionally made room for a separate step focused on giving the skin moisture before deciding what comes next.
KEY MESSAGE
In J-Beauty, hydration is often treated as a foundation — not a finishing touch.
Japanese Lotion vs. Western Toner
This is where translation gets tricky.
Japanese keshosui is often translated into English as “lotion” or sometimes “toner.” Neither word is perfect.
JAPANESE LOTION
Keshosui
Usually lightweight and watery.
Commonly used immediately after cleansing.
Often focused on hydration and preparing the skin for the next steps.
WESTERN TONER
Many different roles
Modern toners may hydrate, exfoliate, soothe, help control oil, or deliver active ingredients.
Toner is also an optional step in many simple Western skincare routines.
Today, the line between a hydrating toner and Japanese lotion can be quite blurry.
So rather than focusing only on the English name, I think it is more useful to ask: What is this product meant to do for the skin?
Why Does Hydration Come First in J-Beauty?
I like to explain this idea with a very simple image.
THINK OF A PLANT
Water first.
Fertilizer second.
Before worrying about fertilizer, you first look at whether the soil has enough water.
I sometimes use this analogy when I talk about skincare.
For the analogy, lotion is the water. A targeted serum is the fertilizer. And richer creams or oils are something we add according to how much protection the skin needs.
Of course, skin is not a plant, and skincare products are more complex than this simple comparison. Serums can hydrate, and moisturizers can contain both water-binding and oil-based ingredients.
But as a way of thinking about a routine, I find the image useful.
Before asking, “Which serum should I add?” I like to first ask, “Does this skin have enough hydration?”
Inside Japan: What the Lotion Step Tells Us About J-Beauty
01
HYDRATE
Giving the skin moisture after cleansing is a familiar part of Japanese skincare.
02
TREAT
Serums and targeted products can then be chosen according to what the skin needs.
03
ADJUST
The amount and richness of the next step can change with skin type, season, and how the skin feels.
This is why I don’t think Japanese skincare is really about memorizing a fixed number of steps.
The basic routine gives you a starting point. Then you look at your skin.
Hydrate first. Treat second. Add richness only as needed.
CHIO FIELD NOTE
From my treatment room in Osaka
Clients often ask me about serums.
“What should I use for pores?”
“What should I use for aging?”
“Which ingredient should I add?”
Those are good questions. But before I think about adding another active product, I look at the skin itself.
Does it look comfortable? Does it feel dry? Is it more sensitive than usual? Has the season changed? Is the person already using too many products?
Sometimes the answer is to add something.
Sometimes the answer is to simplify.
For me, good skincare begins before the next bottle is opened. It begins by noticing the skin in front of you.
CHIO’S TAKEAWAY
Hydration is the foundation.
What you add next depends on your skin.
Does Every Skin Type Need the Same Japanese Lotion?
No — and this is where skincare becomes personal.
DRY SKIN
May feel more comfortable with a routine that places greater emphasis on hydration and moisture retention.
OILY SKIN
Can still need hydration, while preferring lighter textures and less richness in later steps.
SENSITIVE SKIN
May benefit from keeping the routine simple and avoiding formulas that the individual skin finds irritating.
This is why I would never choose a skincare routine based only on the words “Japanese skincare.”
Your skin type, current condition, climate, age, lifestyle, and the other products you use all matter.
In future guides, I’ll break down Japanese skincare separately for dry, oily, and sensitive skin.
Evidence / Why It Matters
Shiseido’s Japanese beauty guidance describes lotion as a step that gives the skin hydration and is generally followed by emulsion, which adds oil and helps maintain that moisture.
By contrast, the American Academy of Dermatology’s basic product order moves from gentle cleansing to treatment and then moisturizer and/or sunscreen without requiring a toner step.
Cleveland Clinic notes that toner is optional in a simple routine and that modern toners now vary widely: some hydrate, while others target oil, exfoliation, or other concerns.
Sources:
Shiseido Beauty Journey — Lotion & Emulsion
American Academy of Dermatology — Skin Care Product Order
Cleveland Clinic — Do You Need a Face Toner?
How to Use Japanese Lotion
01 / AFTER CLEANSING
Use it on clean skin, following the directions for your particular product.
02 / BE GENTLE
Apply with clean hands or a cotton pad if the product recommends it. Avoid unnecessary rubbing.
03 / THEN ADJUST
Add serum, emulsion, or moisturizer according to the product directions and what your skin needs.
Do You Need a Cream After Japanese Lotion?
Not everyone needs the same amount of richness, but Japanese lotion and cream do not necessarily do the same job.
Shiseido’s basic Japanese skincare guidance pairs lotion with emulsion because adding hydration and maintaining that moisture are different parts of the routine.
How much emulsion, moisturizer, cream, or oil you need depends on your skin and the formulas you are already using.
For me, the question is not simply, “Do I need cream?”
It is:
What does my skin need after hydration today?
Final Thought
Japanese lotion may look like a small step.
But I think the idea behind it is much bigger.
Before trying to fix everything with another active ingredient, stop for a moment and look at the condition of your skin.
Give it what it needs first.
Then decide what comes next.
J-Beauty isn’t about looking younger overnight.
It’s about caring for your skin so it ages beautifully.
A little question for you
After cleansing, do you use a separate hydration step — or do you go straight to serum or moisturizer?
ARIGATO for reading.
CHIO
Japanese Esthetician in Osaka
Skin, the Japanese Way
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